Across Florida Bay: Flamingo to Long Key Roundtrip Adventure

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Sea foam forms patterns in the current as you look north towards Rabbit Key

Whenever you show up at the Flamingo Ranger Station in the afternoon asking for a backcountry camping permit, you will get a funny look from the ranger. This is because they know you probably won’t get there before sunset! Such was my case when I got a late start on my cross Florida Bay adventure. Regardless, I knew what I was getting into, and really wanted to take my time. I broke up this trip into four segments, which equaled four days and three nights out in delightful Florida Bay! I also decided to do this trip solo to allow me to do it my way, on my schedule & do fair amount of photography.

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Aerial bird’s eye view of Little Rabbit Key in the morning!

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Across the bay is about 25 – 30 miles each way, so you could do this roundtrip in two days, but chances are you will get stranded anyway because the tides inverse about half way through. Also, you might just miss out on all those little things along the way .. so my advice is to ‘slow it down’ brothers and sisters!

As with most trips in central and western Florida Bay, it’s easy to navigate by line of sight and dead-reckoning if needed. You really don’t need a GPS, and your cell phone will most certainly not work in the middle of the bay. On multi-day trips like this you should of course have your full assortment of safety gear, have a marine weather radio & be completely self-reliant. You could also consider a Spot type device if you like, or just go with a chart and a compass like I do. Do some research and time your trip accordingly .. mine was in February with a week’s worth of great weather forecast and favorable conditions to look forward to!  Since you will have NO contact with the world outside,  you should also file a float plan with someone who cares about you & get your Wilderness Camping Permit. Having said that,  this lack of contact with the outside world of people is a special experience and priviledge in this day and age; especially for those of us living in [sub]urban South Florida. So go and take full advantage and have faith in yourself, the weather & the universe at large – it’s gonna be alright!!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

My route across Florida Bay: Flamingo to Long Key and back was approximately 60 miles.

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The first leg was from Flamingo to Little Rabbit Key, which is about 14 to 15 miles roughly right in the middle of Florida Bay. Depending on the tide situation, you can take the regular boat channel rounding Man of War Key, or try your luck going over the bank flats to cut down on the miles.  I chose the latter, and saw a gorgeous sunset from my kayak, and then proceeded well into the evening. Turns out my gamble didn’t work and I got high-centered after dark, with still about five miles to go to Little Rabbit Key. Oh well, that’s the way it was!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Like a machine had piled this all on top, I picked up some ‘salad’ paddling across those flats.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Approaching Man of War Key

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

A Florida Bay sunset on the water

This has happened to me before, and it’s mostly just a matter of waiting it out until more water comes in. It’s a good time to just ease back in the seat and enjoy the rising moon and stars above whilst enjoying a beer or two.  Since the boat was grounded, I could stand up and stretch out.

Times like this make it hard to convey the beautiful feeling of being out there in the middle of nowhere, just me & my boat.. a very special time!!  :)

Did I mention the light easterly breezes? The air is so sweet & fresh, I always feel I’m getting “extra” oxygen, so I breathe deep. It is like yoga with beer in complete relaxation mode!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Central Florida Bay at dusk with moon rising

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Transition from day to night out under a big clear sky!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Turns out that being stranded on a bank flat at night isn’t so bad! Enjoying the stars above while waiting for more water.

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After maybe a couple more hours, I finally arrived at my first campsite on Little Rabbit Key around 9pm. After setting up camp in the moonlight I just snacked & enjoyed the fine views!

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Little Rabbit Key dock in the moonlight

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

My first night’s camp on Little Rabbit Key

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Waking up after a very good night’s sleep I enjoyed a tasty cappuccino with breakfast!  :)

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Buenos Dias on Little Rabbit Key con Cappuccino!

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Little Rabbit Key receives a good amount of recreational use, you will see a couple of old (illegal) fire pits and a picnic table. The convenient picnic table makes cooking and eating easy & clean.  Its  also the best camp spot on the island and you can set up a hammock right behind the table. To the side, there are two porta-potties which are definitely needed as the clay dirt is really hard to dig into.. FYI.

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Looking around, I surmised that Little Rabbit Key is just about the exact shape and size of a baseball field and I took some time to check it out and photograph it.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Aerial bird’s eye view of Little Rabbit Key in the morning!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Aerial bird’s eye view of interior of Little Rabbit Key.

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There was a young, friendly & healthy looking Osprey in it’s nest on the island. This was in february, so maybe he was preparing a nest for his mate (or vice-versa?). This is what his call sounds like.. I would hear this at different volumes and fade-ins/outs throughout my stay. Fascinating to watch, Osprey seem like pretty smart and relaxed birds in general.

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Osprey calling .. HELLO!

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Healthy Osprey in the nest on Little Rabbit Key

 Little Rabbit Key has a deep channel around it that is easily accessible by powerboats, so don’t be surprised if one roars up. It’s also a popular fishing spot,  and you’ll see boats in the distance poling over the flats.  Folks are generally friendly out here.. it is island time! At night, you’ll notice the strong glow (light pollution) of Dade/Broward to the NE and the much dimmer glows from the different Keys towns.

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Also, you will hear lots of crickets which makes for good sleeping!  :)

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Mid-week, you won’t hear or see much human activity out here, save for a passing airplane or fishermen. You are truly in ‘the middle of nowhere’ out here in Florida Bay!

Enjoy the views and the big, BIG sky with all those little fluffy clouds!!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Extreme telephoto of fisher folk poling the flats & Flamingo cell tower, about 12.5 miles north. This is at the limit for being able to see it by naked eye alone, but at night you can easily see it’s flashing red light.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Dock on Little Rabbit Key

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Weather reporting station LRKF1 is right next to Little Rabbit Key

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Just a few feet off shore from the island is Weather Station LRKF1 which you can use to help plan your trip and estimate tides. It’s part of a network of National Data Buoy Centers in S. Florida that report near real-time data.

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The way Little Rabbit Key sits in the middle of Florida Bay means at least three things. One, you’re at the limit of line of sight with the cell tower at Flamingo, about 12 miles. Two, as soon as you turn south from the island, you will be able to just make out the tall bridge at Long Key, which is very convenient! Three, the tides seem to inverse near this spot, meaning that it switches to the way the Keys tides flow. This also means another chance to get stuck on a low tide again .. more on this later.

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This started the second leg of the trip, from Little Rabbit Key to Long Key.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Approaching the big bridge on Long Key, still several miles away

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When you are this far out in the bay,  just you and your boat and the sea, it’s like you’ve stepped back about a 100 years. Things become very simple: Eat, Paddle, Sleep. Repeat. You are always just in the moment, soaking in the good living. It’s good because you planned it that way; it is for a limited time. Sometimes I feel like an astronaut venturing out in space, I bring all my food, my water, my shelter (tent), etc. I think how strange it is that in the middle of this ‘real world’ so full of life, I am only a temporary visitor & observer. A visitor who has to  bring all these necessary supplies in order to ‘survive’. These supplies are needed just to ensure a safe return to .. just exactly where, to what? Makes you think!

Out here among these island ‘Keys’ you can get a real good feel for what the Florida Keys must have been like before they were connected by all those bridges!! Oh the romance of the old Keys.. often makes me think of Key Largo.. so don’t Bogart that thought, my friend!  ;)

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Barnes Key is only about 7 miles north of the Long Key and it feels like you’re in the Keys already. So along with boat traffic, you will sadly see a fair amount of trash and debris deposited along the island mangroves.  Most prevalent seem to be 5 gallon buckets and styrofoam floats in various stages of decomposition. Still the waters are clear with many Blue Crabs wanting to fence with me as I glide above them in a foot of water. There is still a lot of life and richness out here!

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Blue Crab in the clear shallows off Barnes Key.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Young bird feathers and vegetation clapotis.

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Mangrove roots underwater .. near the base of the food chain!

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After you are finally on the Keys side, the natural choice for camping is at Long Key State Park, on one of their ‘Primitive Shelters’ (like a chickee). You should call the park (305) 664-4815 and check availability!! The platforms are about twice the size of an everglades-style chickee with a very high roof. There are only six of them, and the best two are the western most ones. These are the only two from which you can easily access your boat within just a few feet. However this whole shelter and boardwalk area is in the middle of mangroves, so even in February, there were serious no-see-ums!!

Once you pass under the Overseas Highway, you will have to paddle around to the middle of Long Key on the ocean side to get to the chickees.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Long Key bridge. At this point you still have about another hour to go as the campsite is in the middle of the key on the ocean side.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Keys sunset – XXL

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Bring a cockpit cover and ‘button down yer hatches’, maybe even roll your boat over to keep out resident racoons!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Most of Long Key is Long Key State Park. Primitive Chickee camping is in the middle on the ocean side.

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Primitive Chickee camping area is just off the ‘beach’. Best two spots are on the one’s on the left (west)

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Long Key is very pretty with great facilities and extremely inexpensive when it comes to Keys accommodations! There are nature trails in the park if you have time.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Long Key State Park Chickees are very much deluxe, with plenty of space!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Long Key State Park Chickees are situated in the mangroves which means many MANY no-see-ums – prepare thyself!!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Early morning sun lights up the old railroad bridge on Long Key

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History of the Overseas Railroad and Highway.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Boat channel along original Flagler’s Railroad bridge

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Setting off from Long Key, I entered into the third leg of my trip .. back to Little Rabbit Key. This section of Florida Bay up towards the Arsnicker Keys has the classic ‘Keys’ hues of the greenish waters with the cyan sky punctuated by grays with hints of magenta!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Rain clouds over the Keys in Florida Bay

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Right next to the Arsnicker Keys is a picturesque small clump of Red Mangroves.

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Mangroves next to Arsnicker Keys

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Tiny mangrove ‘island’ next to Arsnicker Keys

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Interesting mud/limestone ledge along Lower Arsnicker Key

Lower Arsnicker Key has an interesting raised berm of clay mud on limestone with gouged out ‘rat holes’ that you can see from your kayak, though I think they are probably geological formations. The dried doormat-like vegetation that lines the shore line makes fascinating (but smelly) patterns.

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Dead vegetation compacted by waves and dried by the sun makes interesting patterns, feels like a doormat.

You can see this washed up old boat on Google Earth .. that’s how I first saw it!

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Derelict old boat washed up on the shore of Lower Arsnicker Key

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After the Arsnickers, I set off northward across one of the flats and got high-centered again for about 40 – 20 minutes. Like I said earlier, the tides are crazy here and do a switch in this very region. Chances are you will also get briefly stuck unless you stick to the official boat channels!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Standing in my kayak, momentarily stuck on the flats bank near Arsnicker Keys.

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This time I arrived mid afternoon back on Little Rabbit Key and had ample to chillax in my hammock.

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Feeling Irie, island time in the hammock on Little Rabbit Key!

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If you bring an AM/FM radio you can have a lot of fun random tuning in to the various stations for some cool Jazz & Classical, NPR such as the fun Pipe Dreams broadcast! On AM, you’ll hear all kinds of talk & Cuban radio and also one of my personal favorites: The Broadcasting Corporation of the Bahamas on AM1540. It’s a perfect accompaniment to the island vibe such as this track by Phil Stubbs .

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Extreme sunset closeup from Little Rabbit Key

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Delicious dinner on the island with chunks of real octopus!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

This is your view north towards Rabbit Key at night

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Little Rabbit Key interior from the south part of the island

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Ants gorging themselves on morning dew water!

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

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When I woke up in the morning, there was a lot of humidity and ‘smooth’ items had lots of morning dew on them. Some were completely covered with ants! At first I thought to kill them off, get them off my stuff. Then I realized that they were just drinking up this water, which was a huge bonus to them. Sure enough as the sun rose they dispersed and all my stuff was ant-free again!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Morning dew on mangrove leaf.

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Take some time to swim and snorkel around the deep channel surrounding Little Rabbit Key. The current is swift, and the water is clear and teeming with fish! Very refreshing in the morning, be sure to bring your mask, fins & snorkel!

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Sponges surround Little Rabbit Key

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Water around Little Rabbit Key is very clear and teeming with the fishes!

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Have you seen a more beautiful sight!

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Fish teeming in the mangrove roots of Little Rabbit Key

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After departing Little Rabbit Key, the final and fourth leg of my trip began. However I was not in a hurry to return, so I drifted with the current a part of the time.

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Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Watching my kayak slowly drift away from me on the flats of central Florida Bay

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Once you get within about 4 miles or so of Flamingo, you realize the trip is over, even if you don’t want it to~

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One final beautiful surprise .. witnessing a small pod of Dolphins hunting and feeding together!

Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Flex Maslan Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Dolphins hunting and feeding on final approach to Flamingo.

Bottlenose Dolphins have developed a cooperative hunting technique to herd mullet into a tight coil & then they just snap up the fish as they try to get away!

This creates tell-tale spiral and circular marks in the sea grass beds visible from the air.

Outside the park, these clever hunters also compete with commercial fishermen for limited food resources which has caused controversy!

Dolphins hunting feeding Across Florida Bay Everglades camping Little Rabbit Key Long Key Flamingo kayakfari canoe kayak adventure outback flats bank Keys primitive

Composite photo of cooperative hunting behavior of Bottlenose Dolphins in Florida Bay.

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z End!

(Well then I still had to drive back home on the Autobahn – which was another adventure~!)

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To learn more about Florida Bay and the Keys, I can recommend this informative and beautifully done book. There is a wealth of information inside along with incredible images by internationally recognized and top local Everglades photographers. If you like Florida Bay and the Keys, you will LOVE this book!

Full Disclosure: A few of my images are in it too.

Everglades Foundation Florida Bay Forever book photography Flex Maslan kayakfari kayak canoe water keys Maslin kayakfari.com dan burkhardt acclaim press published jimmy buffett fishing

“Florida Bay Forever” – Everglades Foundation book edited by Dan Burkhardt (with some photography by Flex Maslan).
Cover photo by Rob O’Neal

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© 2012 Flex Maslan / kayakfari.com / digital029art.com. All original photographs, artworks and music in this portfolio are copyrighted and owned by the artist, Flex Maslan, unless otherwise noted. Any reproduction, modification, publication, transmission, transfer, or exploitation of any of the content, for personal or commercial use, whether in whole or in part, without written permission from the artist is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

DISCLAIMER:: The maps and images on this site are not intended for navigation, I am not a guide; use any and all information at your own risk! Your mileage may vary .. so use good judgement before venturing out!

With that said..
Blessings friends!

:)

9 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. The Scribe
    May 18, 2012 @ 22:31:44

    Flex, You did it again!

    I have been to Little Rabbit Key three times (only once by kayak). Your account of the greatly extended voyage was sensational and it paves the way for other adventurers to risk it. The report is very emotional to read, as your courage shines, and your adaptations to surprises are admirable. Very, very few people on this earth can do such a trip. Thanks so much for writing it up! David McNeely

    Reply

  2. Tom the rower
    May 19, 2012 @ 07:16:49

    I really like your posts. It has made the wife and I want to do the Johnson key chickee and the shark key chickee then back to Flamingo trip.

    Great post.

    Tom

    Reply

  3. luis rincon
    May 19, 2012 @ 09:23:12

    Beautiful pictures and exellent explanations and commentaries!!!
    Thanks in the name of nature lovers,
    Luis Rincon.

    Reply

  4. Kayakfari
    May 19, 2012 @ 14:13:33

    Thanks so much friends!! I couldn’t keep all this just to myself!~ ! :)

    Keep checking back, lots more Everglades and Florida Bay action coming this way soon!
    -Flex

    Reply

  5. charlotte
    Feb 21, 2013 @ 23:04:04

    Thanks for sharing your photos and trip. It was a beautiful trip you had.

    Reply

  6. Don
    Sep 20, 2013 @ 13:00:45

    Dear Flex,

    My wife and I are planning this trip. We will go from Bonefish Bay to Flamingo and back. We have been high ended before and want to avoid this. Any specific charting or timing advice.

    Don and Marie

    Reply

    • Kayakfari
      Sep 26, 2013 @ 08:04:39

      Hi Don, Marie, you’re in for a great trip! Your distances are about the same, since Lower Matecumbe and Long Key are so close. I would wait another month or two until the active afternoon t-storm season is over, but then there might be some wind. Best time of year is probably Jan or Feb. If you stick to charted boat channels you should be ok, but what fun is that in a kayak? You should expect to get stuck, but with some research and good timing, you can minimize your time not spent floating ..

      Reply

      • Donald C. MacLean
        Sep 26, 2013 @ 09:43:47

        Yes Flex,

        We will do the study.

        Thanks for the great photos!

        Sincerely, Don and Marie

        http://www.mamusico.com

  7. Ginny
    Jan 16, 2014 @ 20:08:45

    Awesome and inspiring Pictures. I’m a follower of Florida paddlers and love discovering new paddling places.
    Thanks for the amazing pictures and stories. :)

    Reply

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