Across Florida Bay: Flamingo to Long Key Roundtrip Adventure!

‘Slow it down’ brothers and sisters!

Know where?

Nowhere and now here!

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My route across Florida Bay: Flamingo to Long Key and back was approximately 60 miles.

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Whenever you show up at the Flamingo Ranger Station in the afternoon asking for a backcountry camping permit, you will get a funny look from the ranger. This is because they know you probably won’t get there before sunset! Such was my case when I got a late start on my across Florida Bay adventure. Regardless, I knew what I was getting into, and really wanted to take my time. I broke up this trip into four segments, which equaled four days and three nights out in delightful Florida Bay! This was a solo trip to allow me to do it my way, on my own schedule, and so I could do fair amount of photography along the way.

I did my research and timed my trip accordingly with a week’s worth

of great weather and favorable conditions to look forward to!

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The Ranger station at Flamingo, at the end of the road.
Chickees and Keys in Florida Bay – Kayaking, Camping and Nice Dreams!

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Across Florida Bay is about 25 – 30 miles each way, so it’s possible to do this roundtrip in two days. However, chances are you might get stranded on one of the flats banks because the tide models inverse about half way through to the Keys. Also, you might just miss out on all those little things along the way, so my advice is to ‘slow it down’ brothers and sisters!

As with most trips in central and western Florida Bay, it’s easy to navigate by line of sight and dead-reckoning if needed. You really don’t need a GPS and and can just go with a chart and compass like I do. Also your mobile phone may or may not work in the middle of the bay, so don’t count on it! On multi-day trips like this you should of course have your full assortment of safety gear, have a marine weather radio and be completely self-reliant and obtain your Wilderness Camping Permit.

You could also consider a satellite tracking device if you like, or at the very least file a float plan to leave with someone who cares about your well being!

Since you will have little or NO contact with the world outside it will be a special experience! Time to disconnect and enjoy the great wide open world that is just outside of [sub]urban South Florida. So go ahead and take full advantage – have faith in yourself, the weather and the universe at large – it’s gonna be alright.

The lack of contact with the world of people is a very special privilege in this day and age and Florida Bay is a great place to be free ranging!

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“Free ranging on Florida Bay”
Kayakfari ART photography.

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The first leg was from Flamingo to Little Rabbit Key,

which is about 14 to 15 miles roughly right in the middle of Florida Bay.

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Depending on the tide situation, you can take the regular boat channel rounding Man of War Key, or try your luck going over the bank flats to cut down on the miles.  I chose the latter, and saw a gorgeous sunset from my kayak, and then proceeded well into the evening. Turns out my gamble didn’t work and I got high-centered after dark, with still about five miles to go to Little Rabbit Key. Oh well, that’s the way it was!

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ART of the Bay – Florida Bay Landscapes

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Like a machine had piled this all on top, I picked up some ‘salad’ paddling across those flats.

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This has happened to me before, and it’s mostly just a matter of waiting it out until more water comes in. It’s a good time to just ease back in the seat and enjoy the rising moon and stars above whilst enjoying a beer or two.

Since the boat was grounded, I could stand up and stretch out!

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Fitness, Adventure and Art on the High Seas!
How I like fishing – that is fish eye photography.
On the fine ART of living in a lens Bubble!

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Approaching Man of War Key.

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Times like this make it hard to convey the beautiful feeling of being out there in the middle of nowhere, just me and my boat.. a very special time!!  🙂

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A Florida Bay sunset on the water.

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Did I mention the light easterly breezes? The air is so sweet and fresh, I always feel I’m getting “extra” oxygen, so I breathe deep. It is like yoga with beer in complete relaxation mode!

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Central Florida Bay at dusk with moon rising in the eastern sky.

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Transition from day to night out under a big clear sky!

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Turns out that being stranded on a bank flat at night isn’t so bad! Enjoying the stars above while waiting for more water.

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After maybe a couple more hours, I finally arrived at my first campsite on Little Rabbit Key around 9pm. After setting up camp in the moonlight I just snacked and enjoyed the fine views!

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My first night’s camp on Little Rabbit Key.
Little Rabbit Key – a camping jewel in Central Florida Bay!

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Little Rabbit Key dock by the moonlight.

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In the darkness you’ll notice the strong light pollution glow of urban South Florida to the NE and the much dimmer glows from the different Keys towns to the south.

Also, you will hear lots of crickets which makes for good sleeping!

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The moon riding across the big sky over the little island.
The Supermoon of 2016 and the full moon camping experience at Little Rabbit Key!

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Waking up after a very good night’s sleep I enjoyed a tasty cappuccino with breakfast!  🙂

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Buenos Dias on Little Rabbit Key con Cappuccino!

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ART of the Bay – Florida Bay Landscapes

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Kayakfari ART photography – “A view to a Chill” from LRK!
ART of the Bay – Florida Bay Landscapes

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Little Rabbit Key receives a good amount of recreational use, you will see a couple of old (illegal) fire pits and a picnic table. The convenient picnic table makes cooking and eating easy and clean.  Its  also the best camp spot on the island and you can set up a hammock right behind the table. To the side, there are two porta-potties which are definitely needed as the clay dirt is really hard to dig into.. FYI.

Looking around, I surmised that Little Rabbit Key is just about the exact shape and size of a baseball field and I took some time to check it out and photograph it.

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Aerial bird’s eye view of Little Rabbit Key in the morning.
Little Rabbit Key – a camping jewel in Central Florida Bay!

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Aerial bird’s eye view of interior of Little Rabbit Key.

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There was a young and healthy looking Osprey in it’s nest on the island at the time and this is what his call sounds like. I would hear this at different volumes and fade-ins/outs throughout my stay. Fascinating to watch, Osprey are pretty smart and relaxed birds in general.

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Osprey calling!

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Healthy Osprey in the nest on Little Rabbit Key.

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Little Rabbit Key has a deep channel around it that is easily accessible by powerboats, so don’t be surprised if one roars up. It’s also a popular fishing spot, and you’ll see flats boats in the distance poling over the banks. People are generally friendly out here, it is island time after all

Mid-week, you won’t hear or see much human activity out here, save for a passing airplane or some fishermen. Enjoy the views and the big, BIG sky with all those little fluffy clouds.

You are truly in ‘the middle of nowhere’ out here in Florida Bay!

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Extreme telephoto of fisher folk poling the flats and the Flamingo cell tower, about 12.5 miles north. This is near the limit for seeing by naked eye alone, but at night you can easily see the flashing red lights.

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The dock on Little Rabbit Key. During King Tide events it’s barely above water!

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Weather reporting station LRKF1 is right next to Little Rabbit Key.

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Just a few feet off shore from the island is Weather Station LRKF1 which you can use to help plan your trip and estimate tides. It’s part of a network of National Data Buoy Centers in S. Florida that report near real-time data.

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The way Little Rabbit Key sits in the middle of

Florida Bay means at least three things:

One:

You’re at the limit of line of sight with the cell tower at Flamingo at about 12.5 miles.

Two:

 Immediately south of the island, you can just make out the tall bridge at Long Key!

Three:

The tides seem to inverse near this spot, it switches to the way the Keys tides flow.

This also means another chance to get stuck on a low tide again – more on this later.

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The tall bridge at Long Key, 10.5 miles away due south from Little Rabbit Key!
Everglades hot summer camping and cruising – the Central and Western Florida Bay loop!

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This started the second leg of the trip,

from Little Rabbit Key to Long Key.

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Approaching the big bridge on Long Key, still several miles away

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In long distance paddling things become very simple:

Eat, Paddle, Sleep.

Repeat.

You are always just in the moment, paddling and soaking in the good energy. The living is good out here because you planned it that way and it is for a limited time. Sometimes I feel like an astronaut venturing out in space, I bring all my food, my water, my shelter (tent), etc. I think how strange it is that in the middle of this ‘real world’ so full of life, I am only a temporary visitor and observer. A visitor who has to  bring all these necessary supplies in order to ‘survive’. These supplies are needed just to ensure a safe return to just exactly where, and to what?

Out here among these island ‘Keys’ you can get a real good feel for what the Florida Keys must have been like before they were connected by all those bridges! Oh the romance of the old Keys, makes me think of the film classic Key Largo – but don’t Bogart that thought, my friend!  😉

When you are this far out in the bay,

it’s like you’ve stepped back in time about a 100 years.

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Barnes Key is only about 7 miles north of Long Key and it feels like you’re in the Keys already. So along with boat traffic, you will sadly also see a fair amount of trash and debris deposited along the island mangroves.  Most prevalent seem to be five gallon buckets and styrofoam floats in various stages of decomposition. Still the waters are clear with many Blue Crabs wanting to fence with me as I glide above them in a foot of water.

There is a lot of life and richness out here!

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Blue Crab in the clear shallows off Barnes Key.

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Young bird feathers and vegetation clapotis.

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Mangrove roots underwater .. at the base of the food chain!

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After reaching the Keys side, the natural choice for camping is at Long Key State Park, which is just west of the tall bridge on the ocean side. Before Hurricane Irma of 2017, there were six deluxe ‘Primitive Shelters’ chickee platforms. After Irma, primitive camping still exists but you only get a sandy spot to pitch your tent on top of! Also, keep in mind that the whole camping area is in the middle of mangroves, so even in winter there can be serious no-see-ums! There are also some nature trails in the park if you have time.

Once you pass under the Overseas Highway,

you will have to paddle around to the middle of Long Key

on the ocean side to get to the primitive camping area.

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Long Key bridge. At this point you still have maybe another hour to go as the campsite is in the middle of the key on the ocean side.

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Keys sunset in XXL serving!

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Bring a cockpit cover and ‘button down yer hatches’, maybe even roll your boat over to keep out resident raccoons!

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Long Key State Park takes up much of Long Key. The primitive camping area is in the middle on the ocean side.

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Before Hurricane Irma, the primitive chickee camping area was just off the ‘beach’ along a boardwalk.
NOTE: These chickees no longer exist, but the camping is still there!

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Unfortunately, Hurricane Irma destroyed these nice chickees in 2017 and they are not expected to be rebuilt anytime soon!

You can still do this trip, but the camping will not be as deluxe.

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Before Hurricane Irma the Long Key State Park Chickees were very much deluxe!

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Pre-Irma Long Key State Park Chickees were situated in the mangroves which meant many MANY no-see-ums.

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Early morning sun lights up the old railroad bridge on Long Key.

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History of the Overseas Railroad and Highway.

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Boat channel along original Flagler’s Railroad bridge at Long Key.

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Setting off from Long Key,

I entered into the third leg of my trip – back to Little Rabbit Key.

This section of Florida Bay up towards the Arsnicker Keys has the classic ‘Keys’ hues of the greenish waters with the cyan sky punctuated by grays with hints of magenta!

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Some rain clouds over the Keys on Florida Bay.

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Mangrove patch next to the remote Arsnicker Keys.

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Tiny mangrove ‘island’ next to the Arsnicker Keys.

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Interesting mud/limestone ledge along Lower Arsnicker Key.

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The very remote Lower Arsnicker Key has an interesting raised berm of clay mud over limestone with gouged out ‘rat holes’ that you can see from your kayak, though I think they are probably geological formations. The dried doormat-like vegetation that lines the shore line makes fascinating (but smelly) patterns.

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Dead vegetation compacted by waves and dried by the sun makes interesting patterns, feels like a doormat.

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Derelict old boat washed up on the shore of Lower Arsnicker Key.
You can still see this washed up old boat on Google Earth!

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After the Arsnickers, I set off northward across one of the flats banks and got high-centered again for about 30 minutes. Like I said earlier, the tides are crazy here and do a switch in this very region.

Chances are you will also get briefly stuck unless

you stick to the official boat channels at low tide!

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Standing in my kayak, momentarily stuck again on the flats bank near Arsnicker Keys.

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ART of the Bay – Florida Bay Landscapes

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The day was fresh and clear, just like this. Bless!!
Little Rabbit Key – a camping jewel in Central Florida Bay!

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Sea foam forms patterns in the currents around Little Rabbit Key.
Kayakfari ART Photography

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This time I arrived back on Little Rabbit Key in mid afternoon

to chillax long time in my hammock. 🙂

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Feeling Irie, quality island time in the hammock on Little Rabbit Key.
Little Rabbit Key – a camping jewel in Central Florida Bay!

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If you bring an AM/FM radio you can have a lot of fun random tuning in to the various stations for some cool Jazz and Classical, NPR such as the fun Pipe Dreams broadcast! On AM, you’ll hear all kinds of talk and Cuban radio and also one of my personal favorites: The Broadcasting Corporation of the Bahamas on AM1540. It’s a perfect accompaniment to the island vibe such as this track by Phil Stubbs .

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Extreme sunset closeup from Little Rabbit Key.

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Delicious dinner on the island with chunks of real octopus!
Tasty and Quick Cooking for backcountry kayak campers!

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This is your view north towards Rabbit Key at night.

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NIGHT LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY and DIGITAL ART from the EVERGLADES, FLORIDA BAY, TEN THOUSAND ISLANDS, BIG CYPRESS and BEYOND!

(click pic to enter)

ART of Darkness – Camping with the Stars! Part II

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Little Rabbit Key interior from the south part of the island.

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Ants gorging themselves on morning dew water!

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Little Rabbit Key vegetation.

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When I woke up in the morning, there was a lot of humidity and ‘smooth’ items had lots of morning dew on them. Some were completely covered with ants! At first I thought to kill them off, to get them off my stuff. Then I realized that they were just drinking up this water, which was a huge bonus to them.

Sure enough as the sun rose the ants dispersed

and all my stuff was ant-free again!

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Morning dew on mangrove leaf.

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I took some time to swim and snorkel around the deep channel surrounding Little Rabbit Key. The current can be swift, but the water is clear and teeming with fish – it’s hard to imagine a more beautiful sight!

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Snorkeling around the deep channel that surrounds Little Rabbit Key.
Your feet are the key to proper paddling posture and dynamic movement!

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Sponges in the Little Rabbit Key deep channel.

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Water around Little Rabbit Key is very clear and teeming with the fish!

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Fish in the mangrove roots of Little Rabbit Key.
Kayakfari ART Photography

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After departing Little Rabbit Key,

the final and fourth leg of my trip back to Flamingo began.

However I was not in a hurry to return, so I drifted with the current a part of the time. Much of Florida Bay is very shallow, particularly the flats banks which can be only inches deep. This can make active paddling more difficult or almost impossible at times. It may make more sense to just float for a bit if the tide or wind is going your way. Time to kick back and enjoy the float!

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Watching my kayak slowly drift away from me on the flats of central Florida Bay.

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Once you get within about 4 miles or so of Flamingo,

you realize the trip is over, even if you don’t want it to be.

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Dolphins hunting and feeding on final approach to Flamingo.

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There was one final and beautiful surprise – witnessing a small pod of Dolphins hunting and feeding together!

Bottlenose Dolphins have developed a cooperative hunting technique to herd mullet into a tight coil and then they just snap up the fish as they try to get away!

This creates tell-tale spiral and circular marks in the sea grass beds visible from the air.

Outside the park, these clever hunters also compete with commercial fishermen for limited food resources which has caused some controversy.

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Composite photo of cooperative hunting behavior of Bottlenose Dolphins in Florida Bay.

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Back in Flamingo, there’s nothing left to do but pack up and ever slowly readjust to the reality of 21st century urban living. The Park road out of Flamingo is really helpful here as you transition from wilderness to agriculture to freeway.

The road then becomes a time machine

taking you from the past to the present!

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Enjoy!

Well then I still had to drive back home on

Florida’s Turnpike Autobahn – which was another adventure!

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To learn more about Florida Bay and the Keys, I can recommend this informative and beautifully done book. There is a wealth of information inside along with incredible images by internationally recognized and top local Everglades photographers. If you like Florida Bay and the Keys, you will LOVE this book!

Full Disclosure: A few of my images are in it too.

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“Florida Bay Forever” – Everglades Foundation book edited by Dan Burkhardt (with some photography by Flex Maslan).
Cover photo by Rob O’Neal

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More on Florida Bay kayaking:

Chickees and Keys in Florida Bay – Kayaking, Camping and Nice Dreams!

Dawns like this can be found on Florida Bay!
Kayakfari digital ART photography – “Champagne Dawn”

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Kayakfari ART landscape photography and

Digital Art by Flex Maslan

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ART of the Bay – Florida Bay Landscapes

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! Bless UP

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© 2012 – 2021 Flex Maslan / kayakfari.com / awakenthegrass.com. All original photographs, artworks and music in this portfolio are copyrighted and owned by the artist, Flex Maslan, unless otherwise noted. Any reproduction, modification, publication, transmission, transfer, or exploitation of any of the content, for personal or commercial use, whether in whole or in part, without written permission from the artist is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved!

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DISCLAIMER:

The maps and images on this site are not intended for navigation, I am not a guide; use any and all information at your own risk! Your mileage may vary .. so use good judgement before venturing out!

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I hereby disclaim any sponsorship, endorsement, nor association with any product or service described herein. The photographs, depictions, products, and ideas presented on this site are for informational purposes only. Your results may vary, and I do not imply nor guarantee the effectiveness, suitability, design or operation to adhere to any standard. I assume no legal responsibility for the implementation of anything herein presented! Use any and all information at your own risk! By using any and all information from this website, you accept the final liability for any use or possible associated misuse!

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With that said..
Blessings friends!

🙂