Re-visiting Fowey Rocks lighthouse via surfski
for a photo and dive adventure trip!
.
Satellite view of Bill Baggs to Fowey Rocks lighthouse route of about 14 miles round trip.
Although a straightforward paddle, it is all open water and crosses several high speed boating channels!
.
The kayak launch area at Bill Baggs State Park is about a mile north of the tip of Cape Florida
.
Note:
I am describing a 14 mile open water round trip with NO possibility of getting out anywhere. Plan accordingly and paddle within your limitations and the weather conditions!!
Be absolutely sure you know what you are getting into before considering doing this kind of a trip!
Safety first means planning and research first!!
Always have plenty of fresh water to stay hydrated!
.
It’s a fairly long carry to launch at Bill Baggs, a good reason to go with a lightweight surfski!
Kayaking the Biscayne Bay triangle: Cape Florida – Fowey Rocks – Soldier Key!
.
This is a kind of urban offshore paddling trip to Fowey Rocks lighthouse totaling approximately 14 miles and ALL in open water. My boat of choice for this trip was a Stellar SES surfski aka the ‘Grey Ghost‘. This is one of the skinnier boats at about 16.5 inches wide, but is an excellent performing boat. Once the stability profile is mastered, she makes an great and very fast distance cruiser. Typically speeds averaging 5 to 6 mph are possible to maintain with relative ease even up to maybe 3 to 4 foot seas. This particular day was 2 to 3 foot light chop type conditions, and the Ghost was a good match. I am able to carry 6 liters (~1.5 gallons) of water, sitting next to the foot plate and under my legs. This keeps the CoG very stable, or as stable as an SES can be! Also my model has a small access hatch where I can store food, extra hydration and small drybags.
Just as with most of my trips, I look at the entire outing as a combination of fitness, adventure and art!
.
The Grey Ghost (Stellar SES) ready to ride at Bill Baggs on Key Biscayne (from another trip).
Kayak Miami: Bill Baggs to Boca Chita across the “Safety Valve” on Biscayne Bay.
.
Note that it’s at least a 750ft carry from the parking area to the water at Bill Baggs!
.
Launching into a light chop type day with a breeze to take the edge off the heat. The lighthouse is easily seen on the horizon even from a kayak.
.
The first landmark to note is the Cape Florida lighthouse about a mile south of the launch spot. It was completed in 1825 shortly after the United States acquired the Florida territory from Spain. However, there were proposals to build a lighthouse there since at least 1773 when Florida was British. It was the first real Florida coastal lighthouse, built to mark the location of the northern end of Florida’s reefs. In 1836 it was attacked and burned by Seminole warriors in an attempt to drive away white settlers but was re-lit again in 1846.
Cape Florida light was decommissioned in 1878
when the Fowey Rocks lighthouse officially replaced it!
.
Historic Cape Florida lighthouse on the southern tip of Key Biscayne at Bill Baggs State Park is about a mile south from the launch spot. Once past this point, there is nothing but water!
Urban Paddling Aerial VR Panoramas.
.
There’s really nothing but open water between Key Biscayne and Fowey Rocks except for a few channel markers!
.
Once past Cape Florida, it’s all open water with the Stiltsville area to the west and the “Safety Valve” due south. To the east – southeast, are several deep channels where boaters and big yachts cruise through at top speed, which can be unnerving. It’s good to be as conspicuous as possible, but there is always some risk. I purposely picked a weekday to do this trip so there would be less boat traffic to deal with!
I take a measure of comfort in at least three things:
- Staying on course and paddling at a good pace thereby minimizing time spent in any one channel.
- Wearing my Safety Sombrero 3.0 for maximum visibility (not entirely successful on this trip).
- Hoping that the captains piloting these large yachts are competent professionals, alert and sober!
.
Safety Sombrero 3.0 was a good idea, but ..
.
.. not a total success. I had some trouble keeping it up. 😉
Some extra reinforcement was needed!
.
Although this was another solo paddling excursion I would generally discourage anyone from paddling out into open water solo. If you decide to do a paddle like this, I recommend you use the buddy system and file a float plan with someone who can check up on you. Things don’t always go as planned and there are many things that can go wrong when you are out to sea. There are unpredictable factors like the weather which can also put you into jeopardy and you do not want to be out there all by yourself.
That being said, I realize that the above statement might make me sound like a hypocrite, however there is a method to my madness! I generally avoid weekend paddling and thus it can be really difficult to find other capable paddlers able to go during the work week. Sometimes paddling partner(s) cancel out at the last minute. Other times I choose to go solo in order to be in the right frame of mind as to what “feels” right (i.e. artist’s prerogative). It lets me do all the photography I want, do the trip the way I want, etc. I always thoroughly research my options before hand and then pick the most favorable conditions and equipment suitable to the trip. I am prepared to face some reasonable risk and deal with the consequences if need be!
.
Fowey Rocks lighthouse sits very close to the edge of the Gulf Stream ocean current in this satellite view.
.
The Fowey Rocks lighthouse is positioned in very shallow water like all the other offshore lighthouses. Breaking waves can easily occur on low tide, so it’s important to pick the right day and conditions.
.
Fowey Rocks lighthouse was called
“The eye of Miami”
because it’s beacon would guide ships entering
the Port of Miami and keep clear those passing by.
.
Grey Ghost arrival at Fowey Rocks lighthouse!
.
Fowey Rocks lighthouse is the northernmost in a chain of six lighthouses positioned over Florida’s very shallow reefs. The other five lighthouses are: Carysfort Light, Alligator Reef Lighthouse, Sombrero Reef Lighthouse, American Shoal Lighthouse and the Sand Key Lighthouse off Key West! The Florida reef chain proved treacherous for mariners and has been responsible for untold numbers of ship wrecks over the centuries. In fact this lighthouse itself is named after the H.M.S. Fowey which ran aground onto the reef in June 1748.
The lighthouse was completed in 1878 and is anchored with nine iron piles driven 10 feet down into the reef. The solid construction of Fowey Rocks lighthouse has endured for over 140 years. This includes surviving the infamous Labor Day Hurricane of 1935, and Hurricane Andrew in 1992, two of the strongest storms to ever hit the eastern US seaboard!
.
Fowey Rocks lighthouse in 2020.
.
Do you know where your weather data comes from?
Check for current conditions at:
National Data Buoy Center – Station FWYF1 – Fowey Rock, FL
.
Top of Fowey Rocks light – this is where your NOAA station FWYF1 weather data is gathered!
.
The original first-order Fresnel lens for the lighthouse was built in Paris in 1876 and was 12 feet tall and weighed close to a ton. The light was lit for the first time on June 15, 1878. Originally the light source was provided by an oil vapor lamp until the lighthouse was electrified in 1931 using four giant light bulbs. While the lighthouse was manned until 1974, the original Fresnel lens served for over 100 years until 1983 when it was replaced with a modern beacon setup.
The original Fresnel lens from Fowey Rocks lighthouse stood about 12 feet tall!
.
The original lens is on display at a U.S. Coast Guard training center in Yorktown, Virginia.
Kayaking the Biscayne Bay triangle: Cape Florida – Fowey Rocks – Soldier Key!
.
In October of 2012, ownership of Fowey Rocks Lighthouse was transferred from the Coast Guard to Biscayne National Park and it has been nominated for inclusion in the National Register of Historic Places. Since that time, the Florida Keys Reef Lights Foundation has been active in raising funds to stabilize and preserve Fowey Rocks lighthouse and the other five remaining Keys lighthouses.
.
Living quarters of Fowey Rocks lighthouse looks in decent shape for being over 140 years old.
.
The underside of Fowey Rocks lighthouse in 2020.
.
Although in overall good shape, Fowey Rocks lighthouse shows significant rust – just like all the other old lighthouses!
.
Fowey Rocks and the other five old Keys lighthouses are beautiful designs and standing testaments to the ingenuity and engineering possible in their time. They are an important part of Florida’s history! Since 2015, the other five Keys lighthouses have been turned off by the Coast Guard and are looking for new owners. Hopefully they will continue to stand over Florida’s reefs for many years to come. Can you imagine Fowey Rocks lighthouse restored to it’s Victorian era beauty perhaps with it’s original Fresnel lens on display, right on the doorsteps of Miami?
As an additional side note, the American Shoal lighthouse is nearly identical to Fowey Rocks light and was the last to be built to fill the remaining gap in the lighthouse chain.
I have paddled out to visit all six offshore lighthouses and all are in fair condition. To my untrained kayaker eye, some are still pretty solid on their foundations, others looked questionable even to me. All are severely rusted and in need of intense maintenance and restoration. Fowey Rocks is a special case from the other five, since it is part of Biscayne National Park. Nevertheless, it also needs work as you can see in the pictures!
Offshore Paddling: The six historic Florida Keys lighthouses
.
The skeletal iron pile structure of Fowey Rocks light is the secret to it’s longevity!
.
Going underwater there is a lot of trash and debris all around and under this lighthouse. More so than any of the other five lighthouses. The water is very shallow and it’s easy to swim around. The iron foundation pilings and reinforcing struts are all rusted and covered with sharp barnacles and fire coral. With the current and waves, it takes special care not to get banged around into the structure!
.
One of the supports of Fowey Rocks lighthouse just under the surface.
.
Lots of fish under Fowey Rocks lighthouse.
.
Patches of reefs surround Fowey Rocks lighthouse.
.
These iron lids look like they could be parts of water tanks removed back in 1987 perhaps?
.
Lots of trash and debris of various items under the lighthouse.
.
One of the nine iron supports that hold up Fowey Rocks light!
.
Underwater view of iron piling support which looks about 8 inches in diameter.
.
Large cast iron foundation disks for the iron pile construction encased inside another ring of concrete at Fowey Rocks lighthouse. Each iron pile was driven 10 feet down into the reef!
.
At Fowey Rocks, I noticed something new that I haven’t seen at any of the other five offshore lighthouses. The large cast iron foundation disks for the iron pile construction are also encased inside another ring of concrete! I’m not sure that this is the original construction. The concrete rings are probably from a much more recent foundation restoration work. In any case, the concrete surrounds are doing their jobs in preventing erosion under the iron footing disks as compared to the other lighthouses, especially Sombrero and Sand Key lights!
.
Concrete rings surrounding the iron foundation disks working well in preventing erosion.
.
Fowey Rocks lighthouse foundation disks and iron pilings.
.
Fun fact:
Once in the shade or deep enough underwater
most color information is lost.
.
It’s very shallow under Fowey Rocks lighthouse with lots of fishes!
.
Directly under the center of Fowey Rocks lighthouse showing foundation reinforcement.
.
Old access ladder discarded under the lighthouse.
.
Fowey Rocks lighthouse is definitely a worthy paddle and dive trip! 🙂
.
Note:
I am describing a 14 mile open water round trip with NO possibility of getting out anywhere. Plan accordingly and paddle within your limitations and the weather conditions!!
Be absolutely sure you know what you are getting into before considering doing this kind of a trip!
Safety first means planning and research first!!
Always have plenty of fresh water to stay hydrated!
.
One of the 18″ white mooring buoys to which to tie off to at Fowey Rocks. There’s no need to bring an anchor!
.
After arriving at Fowey Rocks, the easiest way to secure the boat was to tie off to one of the white mooring buoys provided there. This was a big plus, since I didn’t want to carry an anchor in this narrow surfski! An additional benefit was that this particular buoy was almost on top of the wreck of the Arratoon Apcar, also previously known as the Arakanapka. The shallow wreck is one of several that can be explored at Biscayne National Park, and in fact there is an underwater Maritime Heritage Trail to explore! On this particular trip I only had time to check out this one.
.
The Grey Ghost safely moored a couple hundred yards from Fowey Rocks lighthouse.
.
Underwater view of my Stellar SES Multisport. This mooring happens to be almost on top of the Arratoon Apcar wreck!
.
Satellite view of Fowey Rocks lighthouse and the wreck of the Arratoon Apcar.
They are less than 200 yards apart over the reef!
.
Going under to explore the wreck of the SS Arratoon Apcar,
an iron-hulled steamship that nearly ran into the lighthouse
while it was still under construction!
.
The wreck of the Arratoon Apcar lies in shallow water less than 200 yards from Fowey Rocks lighthouse.
.
The Arratoon Apcar was an iron-hulled steam ship built Scotland in 1861. It was a good sized merchant ship, measuring 262 feet long with a 35 foot beam and displacing some 1480 tons. On February 20, 1878, she was steaming to Havana when she ran aground at Fowey Rocks that evening. This actually happened while the lighthouse was under construction and as the workers watched in horror! The ship narrowly avoided the lighthouse structure and came on rest on the reef less than a couple hundred yards away. The crew and captain were rescued, but the coal-laden ship was a total loss.
Incredibly, another ship, the Carondelet also ran aground on Fowey Rocks reef in the dark within the span of a few weeks! This one did not wreck however and was floated off after it’s cargo was off loaded.
These two incidents further underscored the need for a lighthouse to mark this reef!
.
Hull stringers and reinforcing beams of the Arratoon Apcar, also known as the Arakanapka.
.
Remains of the Steam Ship Arratoon Apcar at Fowey Rocks reef.
.
Arratoon Apcar broke up on Fowey Rocks reef back in 1878!
.
The Arratoon Apcar lies in about 10 – 20 feet of water near Fowey Rocks lighthouse.
.
Hull plating from the Arratoon Apcar wreck rests on the bottom near Fowey Rocks lighthouse.
.
This is the Steam Ship Arratoon Apcar, also known as Arakanapka which ran aground on the Fowey Rocks reef on Sunday February 17th, 1878. The big ship came to a stop less than 200 yards from the lighthouse while it was under construction!
.
South Florida’s coastal reefs have claimed many ships over the centuries and the resultant salvage or “wrecking” as it was called was the state’s first big industry! Some of these wrecks can be explored today underwater as part of the Maritime Heritage Trail. Eventually six offshore lighthouses were put up over the reefs including Fowey Rocks, so that a vessel always had one in sight. The Fowey Rocks lighthouse became a replacement for the Cape Florida (land) lighthouse which was considered inadequate by the late 19th century. In an era before instant global positioning, communications and satellite navigation these lighthouses mapped out the edges of the reefs along the open sea frontier, in this case the nearby Gulf Stream.
The offshore lighthouses really meant something!
.
Wrecking was Florida’s first big industry. It was a very lucrative business because of the countless numbers of cargo laden ships that were constantly running aground on the Florida Keys reef chain.
.
Offshore Paddling: The six historic Florida Keys lighthouses
.
The British warship H.M.S. Fowey ran aground on this reef in June of 1748, thereby lending it the name “Fowey Rocks“.
.
Fire fishing at Fowey Rocks lighthouse, engraving circa 1886. This was a form of spearfishing from a boat.
.
The “Eye of Miami“ – available from Kayakfari ART Photography.
Old nickname for the Fowey Rocks lighthouse – high contrast style 2017.
Kayaking the Biscayne Bay triangle: Cape Florida – Fowey Rocks – Soldier Key!
.
Original U. S. Light House Board drawings for the new Fowey Rocks lighthouse from December 1875!
Image source: Florida State Archives.
CLICK for large version.
.
Miami Daily News reporter Rose Mallory accidentally fell off the ladder while climbing onto Fowey Rocks lighthouse in this famous photo from 1950. She was fortunately unhurt.
Photographer Walter Davis won first prize in the annual AP excellence in news photography national contest capturing the moment in this photo!
.
The dock at Fowey Rocks light was first built in the mid 1960s. Underneath there are lots of old pieces of it that have broken off over the decades!
Kayaking the Biscayne Bay triangle: Cape Florida – Fowey Rocks – Soldier Key!
.
Saying goodbye to Fowey Rocks lighthouse, preparing for the ride back to Key Biscayne.
.
The Fowey Rocks lighthouse has been guiding mariners into Miami since 1878!
.
Fowey Rocks and American Shoal lighthouses:
nearly identical twins, separated at birth.
.
The American Shoal lighthouse is almost identical to Fowey Rocks light and was the last to be built.
Lower Keys paddling to American Shoal Lighthouse on the edge of the Gulf Stream!
.
The new and improved Safety Sombrero 3.01
The Daily Dose – Safety Sombrero hat is the way!
.
Looking back towards the mainland and Key Biscayne across the wide expanse of open water feels humbling. My surfski is over 20 ft long yet quite narrow. So I may not be in the smallest boat out there, but the narrowest by far. However this is the real beauty of a true performance kayak. Unlike powered boats or sailboats or the really wide SOT kayaks, this type of boat depends on the paddler keeping it upright and pointed in the correct direction. In this respect surfskis are akin to low volume Greenland style kayaks where proper fit is an essential part of the package.
In the surfski, you’re not in the boat, you wear the boat.
The boat, the paddle and the paddler merge into one unit that becomes more than the sum of it’s parts.
This is what makes performance paddling so much fun and so addictive!!
.
That offshore feeling with Key Biscayne and the Miami megalopolis on the horizon.
.
Note:
I am describing a 14 mile open water round trip with NO possibility of getting out anywhere. Plan accordingly and paddle within your limitations and the weather conditions!!
Be absolutely sure you know what you are getting into before considering doing this kind of a trip!
Safety first means planning and research first!!
Always have plenty of fresh water to stay hydrated!
.
Satellite view of Bill Baggs to Fowey Rocks lighthouse and vicinity.
.
Offshore Paddling: The six historic Florida Keys lighthouses
.
Be safe and enjoy your time on the water
and underwater! 🙂
.
.
NOTE:
I would actually discourage anyone from paddling out this far into open water solo, unless you know exactly what you’re doing and have left a float plan with someone who cares about your well being. The reason being the combination of open water and unpredictable events like the weather – you don’t want to be there all by yourself if something were to happen.
If you decide to go, use the buddy system!
.
(click for an alternate trip variation)
A triangular variation of this trip including Soldier Key for some ultra-telephoto views of Miami.
Kayaking the Biscayne Bay triangle: Cape Florida – Fowey Rocks – Soldier Key!
.
.
.
You may also like:
.
Carysfort Reef Lighthouse – paddling into upper Keys nautical history!
.
Kayaking to Alligator Light Reef (lighthouse) .. of Fishes, Wreckers, Pirates and Keys History!
.
Sombrero Reef Lighthouse – visiting the tallest of the reef lights via kayak!
.
Lower Keys paddling to American Shoal Lighthouse on the edge of the Gulf Stream!
.
Sand Key Lighthouse – kayaking to the “southern star” of the offshore Keys reef lights!
.
Kayaking the Biscayne Bay triangle: Cape Florida – Fowey Rocks – Soldier Key!
.
Kayak Miami: Stiltsville Village upon Biscayne Bay!
.
Kayak Miami: Bill Baggs to Boca Chita across the “Safety Valve” on Biscayne Bay.
.
Paddling for Jesus in the Florida Keys dive country!
.
.
! Bless UP!
.
.
© 2021 Flex Maslan / kayakfari.com / awakenthegrass.com. All original photographs, artworks and music in this portfolio are copyrighted and owned by the artist, Flex Maslan, unless otherwise noted. Any reproduction, modification, publication, transmission, transfer, or exploitation of any of the content, for personal or commercial use, whether in whole or in part, without written permission from the artist is strictly prohibited.
All rights reserved!
…
DISCLAIMER:
The maps and images on this site are not intended for navigation, I am not a guide; use any and all information at your own risk! Your mileage may vary .. so use good judgement before venturing out!
…
I hereby disclaim any sponsorship, endorsement, nor association with any product or service described herein. The photographs, depictions, products, and ideas presented on this site are for informational purposes only. Your results may vary, and I do not imply nor guarantee the effectiveness, suitability, design or operation to adhere to any standard. I assume no legal responsibility for the implementation of anything herein presented! Use any and all information at your own risk! By using any and all information from this website, you accept the final liability for any use or possible associated misuse!
.
With that said..
Blessings friends!
🙂
kayakfari ( kayak .. far .. i ) 