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Hard going grass paddling on an old airboat trail enroute to Seagrape Hammock.
CLICK for 360 spin-around panorama!
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At the top of the world in the Everglades – from the tower at Shark Valley!
(click pic)
Part I – Everglades hiking with an Altitude!
“Infinite Grass” – AwakentheGrass ART
CLICK for story!
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Contemporary Everglades exploration series:
“Willoughby Key”
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This story is part two of an experimental hiking and kayaking adventure at Shark Valley in the Everglades interior. Why Shark Valley? Because it is ideally positioned at the north end of Everglades National Park right off Tamiami Trail/Hwy 41. It is also on the edge of the Shark River slough, which is the main water corridor in the ‘Glades hydrology, also known as the famed River of Grass.
Shark Valley happens to be only a short distance from several tree hammock islands in the slough. One of these, Seagrape Hammock, was written about by Hugh L. Willoughby in his 1898 book – “Across the Everglades”. How do I know that Seagrape Hammock IS Willoughby Key? This is simple because Willoughby kept excellent records and published the accurate coordinates in his book!
In Part I: Everglades hiking with an Altitude – Exploring the slough and sawgrass prairies of Shark Valley, an attempt was made to hike out to Seagrape Hammock during low water at the end of April. Although this trip was not successful in reaching the tree island, it did produce some excellent photography!
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Pedal + Paddle in the Everglades at Shark Valley.
14 miles of pedaling plus 4 miles of paddling!
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NEW! Check out this entertaining vid of our exploits!!
“Shark Valley with a Twist!”
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This trip then, is Part II – a continuation of the previous one, but using a different approach. This time during higher water levels just before Christmas. Joining me on this adventure once again would be fellow Everglades explorer and Florida Trails Association (FTA) member David Warfel.
Why go to Seagrape Hammock? Well there’s the historical connection provided by Hugh Willoughby in his entertaining book that gives a window into the Everglades of old circa 1898. At that time, the Everglades were largely still un-touched and pristine. At that time Seminole Native Americans were still able to live a traditional subsistence way of life. The Everglades were clean, bountiful and unfettered! Also, I have been fascinated with this tree island ever since sighting it during a trip down the Shark River slough in 2012. On that trip we passed within a mile away, but couldn’t take the time for the detour. Finally, Seagrape Hammock is situated roughly halfway in between the Cypress strands of Big Cypress to the west and the (now developed) Pineland higher ridge to the east. So by foot or by boat, or bicycle I’ve been determined to go and see it!
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Early start on Tamiami Trail off Hwy 41.
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The easiest way to get to Seagrape Hammock is to launch at the airboat trail next to the “Jetsons” tower at the end of the Shark Valley tram road. However this presented a logistical challenge since the tram road is off-limits to motor vehicles (except Park staff and concessionaire). Currently, Everglades National Park does not allow the tour tram concessionaire to transport kayaks or canoes to the tower. This is a pity, as there is much exploration and recreation to be had in the Shark River slough! Perhaps in time this will change, and a simple system could be set up to enable public access to these historic northern regions of the Park and the slough for adventurous visitors!
So for this trip, the only feasible choice would be to trailer a canoe or kayak down to the tower with a bicycle. This is fully legit, despite what you may be told at the entrance gate. It is however very unusual to see anyone bicycle trailering (other than baby carriages), so some of the Park staff just aren’t aware. We actually spoke with a Park LEO who confirmed this fact, as long as the area in question is not closed to the public for some reason.
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Pedaling down the Shark Valley tram road with kayak in tow, early AM.
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Initially I wanted to take a canoe, however my big old Coleman canoe was just too large to trailer. I found a better choice in a 13ft sit on top tandem kayak that’s much lighter and easier to trailer.
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View of the owner/operator bicycle – kayak “trailer rig”.
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Since this trip would involve pedaling at least 15 miles round trip, a regular old kayak dolly cart would not work. Something with actual wheel bearings was needed. I re-purposed the frame of a kayak beach dolly, attached to a 5/8″ steel axle with 8″ pneumatic wheels and tires that were on sale for $5. Aluminum tube extensions cut from a junk windsurfing boom had just the right curve to cradle a kayak and were lashed onto to dolly frame with tennis racket tape. The trailer tongue consists of an aluminum tube extension from the seat post to the front toggle carry of the kayak. This resulted in a lot of slop, and needed periodic readjusting and a really steady speed. If I was to do this more often, I would set up a better tongue system. The total cost for this very basic trailer was less than $20 since I already had the axle and dolly frame.
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Taking a break. It’s seven miles just to get to the tower!
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Pulling the trailer with a knobby tired mountain bike actually required a decent effort and several breaks. A road bike with less rolling resistance and narrow wheels on the cart would have made this easier. As it were, we could figure on an hour and a half to two hours to get to the tower.
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Arrival at the airboat ramp next to the Shark Valley tower.
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Paddling right along the Park airboat trail is about 2 miles each way.
It was both simple and difficult at the same time due to the low water level.
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Once at the airboat ramp, launching was easy enough and the Park provides an area to lock up the bikes and trailer by the tower. Note the 7.00 ft water mark at the ramp is really about the lowest you’d want and still float!
NOTE: There is NO potable water at the Shark Valley tower. You have to bring all your water or a filtering setup!!
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7.00 on the water gauge at the airboat ramp. This is just enough for paddling.
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Winter 2014/15 poling in Shark River slough on an airboat trail.
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1898 – poling through Everglades grasses, looking for good water leads!
Source: Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
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The 13ft tandem kayak was a great choice for two people with a minimal paddling, safety and photo kit. However the shape of the hull on this type of craft is very flat, a shallow flattened V tunnel. This combined with the weight of two paddlers on board meant that the hull wanted to “stick” to the grass and made the going more difficult than a proper canoe with a nicer hull shape. On the other hand, this kayak is extremely stable, making it easy to stand and pole when needed.
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Winter 2014/15 – kayak on the Park airboat trail enroute to Seagrape Hammock along the edge of Shark River slough.
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A Fishing Spider on the grass!
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The low water meant hard paddling even on the airboat trail!
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Hugh Willoughby poling his canoe through some tall sawgrass.
Source: Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
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(click pic)
Shark Valley about 3 miles away as seen from a previous Shark River slough trip.
CLICK for story : Kayaking the River of Grass – a Shark River Slough Expedition!
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What’s this, a prescribed burn in the Everglades? 😉
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Beautiful panoramic from the edge of the Shark River slough showing Seagrape Hammock.
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Seagrape Hammock seen from the other side, about a mile away inside the Shark River slough.
CLICK for story!
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A tree island hammock circa 1898.
Source: Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
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A monochrome of the north tip of “Willoughby Key” – Seagrape Hammock.
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Paddling and poling on the airboat trail was tough at times, but the slough makes up for it in it’s beauty and solitude! Water levels in the airboat trail ranged from two feet to mere inches, but with heavy grass growth and mats. I had David up front using a stout canoe paddle while I alternated between a 230cm kayak paddle and an aluminum pole for poling. Sometimes I would break the kayak paddle apart to use like ski poles. I would estimate our average speed was only about one mile per hour, maybe even less!
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Surveying entry into Seagrape Hammock at the airboat trail marker.
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Shark Valley tower in the distance, a little over a mile as the Egret flies.
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Pulling canoes back in the day..
Source: Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
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Pulling kayak into Seagrape Hammock, winter 2014/15.
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At last we were afforded entry into Seagrape Hammock! This was actually easier than anticipated and the first impression was that of a beautiful, lush sub-tropical hammock!
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First entry into Seagrape Hammock aka “Willoughby Key”.
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The lush and green tree island interior welcomed us – HELLO!
In this picture, you can almost feel the spirits welcoming us! 🙂
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I felt immediately welcomed in to the the Jungle.
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“Welcome to the Jungle”.
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The non-edible remains of a terrapin turtle on Seagrape Hammock.
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It’s great to see how nature loves to repeat forms!
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This tree island is lush with lots of ferns!
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The interior is obviously overgrown, with many downed trees, mostly Gumbo Limbo. Looking around I visualized the large clearing described by Willoughby in his book. In fact he described this tree island as being an excellent camping island, with evidence of recent camping and activity (1898). He describes an “Indian” fire ring as well as lots of space, unlike all the other tree islands his party camped on, where they’d be lucky just to fit a tent onto some high ground. He liked this island so much, that he camped here twice and christened it “Willoughby Key” as he fancied himself the first white man to see it.
Who was Hugh L. Willoughby? He was a well-to-do gentleman who indulged his intellect in many pursuits and went on to become an early aviation pioneer. Through his self-financed Everglades expedition and book we gain an intimate glimpse into the real Everglades and it’s natural order. He was fortunate to have done his Everglades exploration at the time that he did. The beginnings of all the big and irreversible changes to the Everglades started only a few years later!
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Ferns on the ground at Seagrape Hammock.
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Wild coffee growing on Seagrape Hammock.
Looks a lot like Brazilian Pepper but the leaves are pointed!
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David Warfel snacking next to a fallen Gumbo Limbo – one of many downed trees.
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These circular panoramas were made with a 185 degree circular fisheye lens.
I think they really show off the beauty and expanse of this lush Everglades hammock island!
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Climbing the Gumbo Limbo trees!
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I shall now attempt a photographic attack campaign upon this island – with my pole and cam!
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Among the many living and dead Gumbo Limbo trees on Seagrape Hammock, the natural next move would be up – UP into the trees!
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Getting higher up in this Gumbo Limbo tree.
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Higher still, but not quite high enough!
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A treasured selfie moment in the Gumbo Limbo tree. 😉
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A 360 panoramic view straight up, high into the Gumbo Limbo canopy!
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High up in the tree at Willoughby Key. 🙂
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(click pic)
Am I high enough already?
Reaching up to the top of the canopy with my pole.
CLICK for story!
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A Kayak Aerial Photography Method – a behind (and above) the scenes look!
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First look from above the canopy of Seagrape Hammock!
This is about 30-35 ft above the Everglades!
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Finally, I was able to poke my cam up and over the tree canopy of the island! I’d estimate the camera height at about 30- 35 feet above the sawgrass prairie.
This is the same view that Hugh L. Willoughby would have seen in 1898 when he climbed a tree on this island to ascertain his position in the Everglades.
He determined that he was roughly in the middle of the Shark River Slough – half way between Big Cypress to the west and the coastal Pine ridge in the east.
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Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
If you zoom in the panorama below, you can just make out the Shark Valley tower on the horizon!
(click pic)
Aerial view from above the tree canopy of Seagrape Hammock, aka Willoughby Key.
CLICK for spin around 360 panorama from above the canopy!
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Looking back at the Shark Valley tower as seen from Seagrape Hammock.
Extreme tele-photo view, about 1.25 miles away .
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On Seagrape Hammock in the Everglades – high in the canopy and rising up above the matrix!
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High up in the canopy of Seagrape Hammock tree island in the Everglades interior!
CLICK for circular panorama!
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Standing in the Gumbo Limbo tree – the better to deploy my pole!
CLICK for story!
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Sun, light and shadows in black and white on Seagrape Hammock.
Kayakfari ART Photography.
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The simple beauty of the sunlight shining through the tree canopy come through nicely here in high contrast black and white!
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High contrast black and white on Seagrape Hammock.
Kayakfari ART Photography.
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At the end of the 19th century when Willoughby photographed this island it had been in use by Native American tribes for quite some time. Per the book, there was a clearing about 60 feet wide in the center with an entrance at the northern tip. Indeed, the deepest water we found was still in the same place. I bet Seagrape Hammock was always one of the better ‘Glades camps!
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Hugh Willoughby standing at the entrance to Willoughby Key (Seagrape Hammock) in 1898.
Source: Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
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Detail of terrapin skeleton.
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Black and white circular panorama from Willoughby Key.
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A monochrome of form and light!
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Willoughby’s canoes in the Everglades.
Source: Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
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The tandem kayak at our entrance to Seagrape Hammock.
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This is the deeper, wetter part on the north tip of Seagrape Hammock. It’s actually very lush and reminded me more of hiking in Big Cypress domes!
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Moving around to a wetter part of the island, it looked more like a Big Cypress dome than the slough!
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Aerial dragon fly view of the north tip of Seagrape Hammock as we departed.
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I was a little bit sad to leave Willoughby Key. Looking around I could picture a clearing with nice trees, plenty of space and multiple trails leading in and out in various directions, connecting with good water leads. Being located where it is, about in the middle of the slough, I’d bet that this was at a cross-roads of the Everglades, a central meeting point in ancient times. There’s a theory that tree islands like this one were in part created as middens – trash heaps left by prehistoric people about 5000 years ago! But we didn’t see any casual evidence of human impact, unless you count some invasive plant species.
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Willoughby’s guide Ed Brewer in the Everglades.
Source: Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
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Vertigo view: Looking straight down the grass prairie at Shark Valley.
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Gorgeous afternoon on the airboat trail overlooking “Willoughby Key”!
Kayakfari ART Photography
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Willoughby kept excellent records and was thoroughly accurate in keeping track of his position.
Source: Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
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(click pic)
Another view of Seagrape Hammock, this time from the top of the Shark Valley tower.
CLICK for story!
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Aerial view of the airboat ramp at Shark Valley.
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This odometer wheel was a part of Willoughby’s excellent and methodical record keeping!
Source: Across the Everglades by Hugh Willoughby, 1898.
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Wheels and bicycles were a part of the story both in 1898 and today.
Willoughby used a bicycle wheel as a paddle-odometer to keep accurate track of his location. We used wheels, bicycles and carts to re-visit the now very different Everglades in the winter of 2014/15.
It will be good to do this again sometime and reach out into some of the other tree islands!
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Special thanks to David Warfel for collaborating and creating this entertaining video:
Shark Valley With a Twist!
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Ready for the ride back to the car!
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Seagrape Hammock in relation to the Everglades and the Shark River slough.
Note the range that Willoughby was able to cover back in 1898!
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Enjoy!
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Want even more grass?
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Everglades hiking with an Altitude – exploring the Slough and Sawgrass prairies of Shark Valley:
Everglades hiking with an Altitude – exploring the Slough and Sawgrass prairies of Shark Valley.
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Chief Chekika’s not so secret island hideaway in the Everglades:
Chief Chekika’s not so secret island hideaway in the Everglades!
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Crossing paths of Gladesmen, Gator hunters, Outlaws & Moonshiners: An invitation to paddling forgotten trails of the Everglades:
Crossing paths of Gladesmen, Gator hunters, Outlaws & Moonshiners: An invitation to paddling forgotten trails of the Everglades!
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Pahayokee to Main Street – probing into the Shark River Slough:
Pahayokee to Main Street – probing into the Shark River Slough.
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Running down the Taylor Slough:
Running down the Taylor Slough!
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Grass Paddling in the East Everglades Expansion Area – History, Gladesmen & more Grass!
Grass Paddling in the East Everglades Expansion Area – History, Gladesmen & more Grass!
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Kayaking the River of Grass – a Shark River Slough Expedition:
Kayaking the River of Grass – a Shark River Slough Expedition.
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Grass paddling and poling in the Everglades Water Conservation Areas:
Modes of travel in the Everglades: Yesterday, today & tomorrow!
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! BLESS
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© 2015 – 2021 Flex Maslan / kayakfari.com / awakenthegrass.com . All original photographs, artworks and music in this portfolio are copyrighted and owned by the artist, Flex Maslan, unless otherwise noted. Any reproduction, modification, publication, transmission, transfer, or exploitation of any of the content, for personal or commercial use, whether in whole or in part, without written permission from the artist is strictly prohibited.
All rights reserved!
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DISCLAIMER:
The maps and images on this site are not intended for navigation, I am not a guide; use any and all information at your own risk! Your mileage may vary .. so use good judgement before venturing out!
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I hereby disclaim any sponsorship, endorsement, nor association with any product or service described herein. The photographs, depictions, products, and ideas presented on this site are for informational purposes only. Your results may vary, and I do not imply nor guarantee the effectiveness, suitability, design or operation to adhere to any standard. I assume no legal responsibility for the implementation of anything herein presented! Use any and all information at your own risk! By using any and all information from this website, you accept the final liability for any use or possible associated misuse!
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With that said..
Blessings friends!
🙂
kayakfari ( kayak .. far .. i ) 
Pingback: Pedal and Paddle in Shark Valley: The kayak and the wheel, a symbiotic relationship. | kayakfari ( kayak .. far .. i )
Great report and photos Flex!
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Pingback: Shark Valley with a Twist! (On the Grass with wheels, bicycles and paddles) | kayakfari ( kayak .. far .. i )
Looks like an amazing adventure. Thank you for sharing your exploit and some history!
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Thank you David! You might also like this story on Chekika Island:
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